A delayed update!

Well, I did some work last weekend! I also found a program called Windows Live Writer, which works just like Word, but updates the blog without having to use Bloggers appalling site!

Anyway, back to the landie!

(With funky effects!) We have one drivers side rear shoe set. Which was a pig to put together. So in the end I haven’t done it. I attempted it..

 

As you can see, the shoes fit. But the springs are a different story. On the initial offer-up, I could get the top spring on, but only on the outside of the shoes, which I’ve been told is INCORRECT. I have the right springs though, which is good. So, after a trip to my favourite forum, I was given the idea of taking the whole hub off. This offers 2 advantages. Firstly, the reason the springs are such a pain to install is the driveshaft is in the way. I couldn’t even get the bottom one in, so with it all off, I can work with just the brakes and back plate. The second, and probably most important reason for doing it is I can have ALL the parts on the bench, in the warm and light, don’t have to have the radio loud to hear it on the drive and don’t loose washers in the gravel, or loose the light!

Therefore, I have to take the driveshaft's out. I took the drivers side one out, mainly whilst I was procrastinating drinking a cup of tea!

It’s in pretty good shape, and the large nut in the picture above this one shows it’s not been bodged about with (theoretically the only thing that hasn’t!) Again, using  this method should save ALOT of faffing around, and enable me to overhaul the whole hub assembly too. The only thing I’m worried about by doing this, is the truck hasn’t moved much since the first picture, where it’s on the drive having all the rust hoovered out of it! Therefore, it’s got to be turned around to get to the passenger side! So I’m thinking of doing the rear and front drivers side brakes/hubs, connect the new brake pipes up, fill the system and bleed it enough to enable it to be turned around.

That brings me to the engine coolant problem. My fix didn’t work! I’m going to have another go with the epoxy, as I’ve got nothing to loose, but ultimately I’m looking for other methods. Answers on a postcard please!, as the vehicle is pretty much useless with that problem.

 

On a more positive note, Evan lent me his old HT leads, after he bought some new ones to troubleshoot his engine, and it turned out to be the distributor. So, with those in place the engine fires up, which means it won’t freeze/seize and the new oil can be sloshed around. I’ve only had it running for minute long bursts, revving it for the last 5 seconds and filling up the engine with a watering can! Also, by replacing the fuel sender the fuel gauge works! I put a jerry can of fuel in it, and it currently rises to just above the E mark, which is promising. Also means the wires are not stuffed!

Talking of wires, I spent an hour sorting out the front light that doesn’t work. I didn’t take any pictures sadly though, but the story is…

The drivers side front light turned off one day, so I left it, not driving it, but it bugged me. I checked the current carrying wires, which were all fine. I then dug around for the earth. The earth, for the front lights consists of a 4 way bullet connector, where 4 earth leads, 2 for the main ones and 2 from either the side lights or indicators plug into. This was white with corrosion. So, I unbolted it and scrapped it. I then, using the old trusty dremel with a wire brush on took the metal underneath down to bare metal and put a smear of Vaseline on the metal to delay corrosion.

That done, I took all 4 earth wires off one by one, and overhauled the connectors. I bought 1--- assorted ones from fleabay for a fiver, so am going to be lavish with them! I renewed them all in the end, as the wires were mouldy and thin. I then crimped on ring connectors to the earth point end, filled the crimps with Vaseline and heat shrunk it all together. I then connected it up to the lights with female spade connectors and IT WORKED! Brighter than before as well! Being a negative earth, the earth completes the circuit. It’s amazing how much current a little bit of corrosion takes away! And how much current comes back after 5 minutes cleaning it up!

 

I must point out that I’m not using bona fide wires. I’m just removing the outer insulation of normal appliance wire and using that. I’m only using it for low voltage bits, mainly lights and the stereo. As and when (and if) I replace it I’ll use proper wires. I then cable tied everything neatly together!

Lastly, tonight, I made myself a new tool, a PC for the garage! Cobbled the parts together out of the garage, so I can stream radio, stream music and video from my main pc, post here and mainly ask questions on forums. I used my laptop last weekend to ask the question mentioned earlier, and although I used an old keyboard and mouse I was so scared I’d plaster oil all over it! So, one pc running a thinned out version of XP that can get as dirty and bashed as it wants with no worries!

 

A lot of my inspiration has come from Mark Evans, and his great series ‘A 4X4 is Born’ As I write this, I’m watching ‘An MG is Born’ which is equally as good, but not as landie related! I’ve also come to the conclusion that I need to invest in Air tools! So, Julie (boss) if you read this, can I have a pay rise?! A welder and a course on welding would be invaluable too, given the state of my chassis!

 

Until tomorrow my Landrover Friends…